Changing trailer wheel bearings boat.

i have a small boat trailer which has to do 400 miles next week and want to change the bearings just in case. I was wondering, how do I know what to get. Do I just take the old ones out, look at the numbers and go on ebay or some shop or is it harder? Its a small 2 wheel trailer with a 14ft fiberglass boat on.



Also, should the main axel part of the trailer bend. Its just a square bit of metal not rotating but the main bit that joins the hubs of both wheels together. When the boat is on it, it flexes quite a lot. Is this ok?Changing trailer wheel bearings boat.
Should be no need to replace the bearings. All you need to do is re-pack them with axle grease. The axle is probably a torsion bar and is supposed to flex. Don't alter it.Changing trailer wheel bearings boat.
the axel part shuld not normally bend. maybe the boat is just a little heavy for the trailer. Fiberglass is heavy and maybe the trailer was made for an aluminum boat.

as for the bearrings,,,,just take them out and put some grease on them. there are 2 bearrings on each wheel.

Happy fishing.
If it's bent down the axle has been overloaded%26gt; It makes the wheel tilt in at the top%26gt;Not good%26gt; If the bearing are not rusted Than just repack and install%26gt; As replacing the race with the new bearings%26gt; you might break the hub getting them out%26gt; If you look the hub assemble isn't much more%26gt; And come with everything including the lug nuts%26gt;Another idea is to carry a spare tire as the cost of it is better than trying to find 1 on the HWY%26gt;
Repacking the bearings is easy enough, changing the races is a b****. Bearings and races mate for life -- don't replace one without the other, and if you re-use, be sure to get 'em all back in the same place.

Changing the seals however is an excellent idea.



Tire off.

Knock the hub cover off.

Remove the cotter pin.

Remove the nut and thrust washer.

Pull the hub off.

The outer bearing will fall out.

Use a screwdriver to pry the inner seal out of the hub. You won't reuse it so don't be gentle.

The inner bearing will fall out from that side.

Clean the bearings, the races (pressed into the hub) and the spindle with a degreaser -- I like to use a citrus degreaser.

When the bearings are clean *DON'T* roll 'em -- you don't want to score those buggers at all.

Inspect the bearings and the races. If they're scored *AT ALL*, replace 'em.

Somebody else suggested a new hub, I totally agree.

But if they're clean then no prob.

The spindle needs to be clean %26amp; shiny, especially up on the shoulder where the seal rides. Any pitting there is bad news. Any discoloration needs to be buffed out with fine emory cloth. Discoloration is the early stage of rust so get it all off.

Put a gob of grease in the palm of your hand and work it into the bearing -- make sure there's grease coming out every opening.

Put the inner bearing in the hub %26amp; press the seal into place -- 2x4 %26amp; a hammer works pretty good, get it flush.

Put the hub in place and fill that sucker up with grease.

Insert the outer bearing, thrust washer, and nut.

Screw the nut on until it seats, tighten it down with a wrench, then back it off until it's just finger tight. Insert a new cotter pin.

Highly recommend bearing buddies, pump grease into the zert just until the pressure plate moves. Overfilling will blow out the seal.